So, you’ve been to the climbing gym a few times, used your friend’s shoes or the loaners from the gym. You’re starting to get hooked. the first thing everyone recommends is to buy your own pair of climbing shoes. That is a great idea — but where to start? What are the best climbing shoes for beginners? You wonder. All your friends are v15 crushers and their shoes look like the talons of an eagle.
We can help you choose your first pair of climbing shoes.
What Are The Characteristics of Beginner Climbing Shoes?
That’s easy – a flat profile, and moderate stiffness. You want your first pair of climbing shoes to be comfortable, so that you can focus on technique and enjoying your climbing sessions, instead of wincing in pain the entire time.
Climbing Shoes For Beginners Sizing
DO NOT LISTEN TO THOSE WHO TELL YOU TO SIZE YOUR SHOES SUPER SMALL. This is common advice given to new climbers and it is BAD ADVICE. If you later decide you want to size your shoes smaller in exchange for more control, that’s fine, but a comfortable fit for your beginner shoe is much more likely to keep you having enough fun to want to continue climbing.
Velcro Vs. Laces
You will also notice that most of our recommended shoes have Velco (hook and loop) closures. This system makes it a little easier to pop your climbing shoes on and off if they are not comfortable for long periods of time.
A shoe with laces can be adjusted to fit your foot a little more precisely, and tighter. So if you have an oddly-shaped foot, or have bone spurs or similar, laces may be a better option. However if you anticipate taking your shoes off and on a lot, a velcro closure will be more convenient. Some shoes in this listing are available in both velcro and lace versions. Climbing shoe manufacturers often indicate velcro with the letter “VS” in the model name, while “Lace” indicates a lace-up.
Climbing Shoe Profile
One other important factor to look at is the profile of the climbing shoe. In plain English: is the shoe flat or curved? A flat profile is more natural and comfortable for all-day use, while a curved shoe (often called an ‘aggressive’ shoe) is much less comfortable, but offers an advantage for standing on small edges and climbing on severely overhanging terrain, as seen in a climbing gym or in very steep sport climbing, such as in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, or Kalymnos, Greece. Climbing shoes for beginners should be flat. All of the shoes listed below have a flat or nearly-flat profile.
Scarpa Origin
The Origin is Scarpa’s best beginner rock climbing shoe. It costs $120, and features a double velcro (hook and loop) closure system. We have personally used previous versions of this shoe and found them very comfortable but a bit lacking in overall performance. The newer version has been updated to remove the problem the previous version had where it would dye your foot blue.
Climb X Rave
Climb X is the budget brand in this roundup. This brand is really, truly targeted at beginner climbers. The good news is, their beginner climbing shoes are the cheapest of the bunch. The bad news is, that’s for a reason – the quality is not quite s high as with the other brands. Still, these shoes are perfectly adequate and will last for many months of dedicated climbing!
The Climb X Rave is also Amazon’s number one selling climbing shoe for beginners, for whatever that tells you.
La Sportiva Tarantulace
Women’s Tarantulace Climbing Shoes
Men’s Tarantulace Climbing Shoes
La Sportiva is one of the most respected brands in climbing. They’re responsible for some all-time favorite models, like the TC Pro crack climbing shoe and the classic Spantik expedition boots, which for a long time were the go-to boot for Alaskan climbing (now discontinued). The Tarantulace isn’t quite as well-respected as those, but it does come from the same lineage. You can expect attention to detail and a good knowledge of what works and what doesn’t. The Tarantulace is a comfortable, all-around climbing shoe with a flat profile and a moderately hard edge.
Black Diamond Momentum
Black Diamond only began making climbing shoes in the past few years, meaning they still have some catching up to do. However, their position as one of the leading climbing brands in the USA means that many folks will encounter their shoes in stores and climbing gyms. The Momentum is basic, but it isn’t a bad shoe. It’s a knit slipper, meaning it breathes very well and stretches to accomodate the unique shape of your foot.
Evolv Defy
Before ClimbX came onto the scene, Evolv was considered the “budget climbing shoe” brand. However, things have changed (have we dated ourselves yet?), and the Evolv Defy shoes, at $109, aren’t any cheaper than anything else in this list. In fact, Evolv prices across the board are on par with the premium brands of La Sportiva and Scarpa.
That aside, the Defy is a deservedly popular beginner climbing shoe, with a well-crafted heel and a simple velcro closure system. If you prefer laces to Velcro (we don’t), the Defy is available in a lace version as well. Evolv shoes are generally considered to fit a little wider than other brands, like La Sportiva.
The Final Word on Beginner Climbing Shoes
Your first pair of climbing shoes is not going to last very long. This is the dirty secret of the climbing world. The poor technique of a beginner rock climber, coupled with the overstoke of someone starting a new hobby means that most first pairs of shoes end up with holes in them within 6 months or so. This doesn’t mean the shoes are poorly constructed! Climbing shoes are consumable, unfortunately. Especially when the climber has poor technique and drags their toe, as beginners are prone to do.
So our advice to you is this: don’t obsess over the choice. Get a cheap pair which fits comfortably, climb a lot, and by the time you have put a hole in your toes, you’ll know better what you want for your second pair of shoes.
Gym to Crag 